Haba Snow Mountain Hiking/Climbing Guide,Yunnan
Category: Yunnan
Overview
The Haba Snow Mountain stands by the Jinsha River, 120km southeast of Zhongdian (Shangri-La), with its main peak of 5,396m. The attraction of the Sanba Tourist Area is attributed to the towering peaks of the Haba Snow Mountain and its alpine moraine lake, endless tracks of azalea flowers and cluster of waterfalls cascading down snow-covered cliffs. The glacier on the Haba Snow Mountain is the southmost glacier in China.
Haba is an interesting township beneath the Haba Snow Mountain. The local minorities include Naxi, Hui (Muslim) and Yi peoples, as well as the odd Tibetan. It is primarily of interest to hikers and those who enjoy exploring remote and more traditional villages. The town along the road is inhabited by a small number of Han people plus a mix of local minorities, the area above the road towards the mountain is home to two Hui (Muslim) villages, each of which with its own mosque. Further up the mountain is an Yi village. Further down the valley, beneath the road is a lush agricultural area inhabited by Naxi people. Opportunities abound for hiking in the surrounding forest and mountains. Keen hikers will be interested to hike to the summit of Haba Snow Mountain, which takes 2.5~3 days at pace for ascent and descent and requires spending nights on the mountain. A guides is required and available in Haba town/villages.
Best Time to go: July and August.
Getting In & Out
Buses run daily to/from both Lijiang and Zhongdian, and are rarely full. Bear in mind that these will stop at many points along the way to pick up locals from intermediate villages.
Bicycle
To the south, the road towards Tiger Leaping Gorge rises for 5km or so, offering a spectacular view of the valley before descending almost constantly for nearly 30km to the valley entrance. From there a slight climb will get you to Walnut Grove.
Heading north out of town a 2km climb sees you through a pass, after which a slight but near-constant descent brings you within a brief distance of Baishuitai.
Lodging
Accommodation is basic and similar throughout most of the Haba town, with budget beds from Y10-15. Showers are shared with solar powered hot water.
The two most popular options are the Haba Snow Mountain Inn and the Fourth Sister Inn. The former provides a computer and a generator, as well as a larger selection of vegetables for meals.
Dining
Other than the impressive range of locally gathered wild mushrooms, there is a definite shortage of culinary variety in this town. Most places offering accommodation feature a limited variety of sorry-looking vegetables and a hunk of meat of two. The staple food is often baba or flatbread rather than rice, and you may be offered Tibetan-style butter tea, which is an acquired taste by all accounts. The saving grace is that all food available is locally produced and is completely free of agricultural chemicals. Also note that Muslim establishments will not serve pork.
Haba Snow Mt. Climbing
Recommend you start with a warm-up trekking from Tiger Leaping Gorge to Haba village first instead of arriving Haba by bus.
Phase I - Tiger Leaping Gorge to Haba Village
D1: Qiaotou-> Nuoyu Village-> 28 Turns-> Halfway Guesthouse
D2: Halfway Guesthouse ->Middle Rapids -> Tina's -> Walnut Grove (Woody)
D3: Walnut Grove -> Haba Village(2800m)
More details on Tiger Leaping Gorge Trekking & Route Maps
Phase II - Haba Village to Haba Snow Mt.
(Horse & guide can be hired in Haba Village, Y100/day total)
D4: Haba Village-> Base Camp (4200m) 6-8hrs
D5: Base Camp--Camp 1(4800m)--Summit(5396m)--Base Camp
D6: Base Camp--Haba Village, take a bus to Baishuitai
D7: Bus from Baishuitai back to Lijiang or further northern to Zhongdian(Shangri-La)
Tiger Leaping Gorge to Baishuitai
Tiger Leaping Gorge Trekking Guide, Yunnan
Category: Adventure Tour
Location: Northwest Yunnan, near Lijiang
Description: A difficult yet amazing trek in one of the world's deepest and most marvelous gorges. It passes through some of the most naturally stunning and diverse landscapes China-if not the world-has to offer, making this once adventurous trek a popular choice for off-the-beaten track travellers. The trek passes in front of one of the highest peaks in Asia, Meili Snow Mt., and high above the deep crevasses of the Gorge, delighting every backpacker with truly awesome sights and great photos.
Access: Lijiang to Qiaotou or Daju
Starting: Qiaotou or Daju
Ending: Daju or Qiaotou or Haba Village
Route A
Daju-> Walnut Grove ( Woody )-> Tina's -> Middle Rapids -> Halfway Guesthouse -> 28 Turns-> Nuoyu Village-> Qiaotou
Remarks: from Daju to Qiaotou is upstream, Qiaotou to Daju is downstream, you can make the trek in either direction.
Part I : Qiaotou <=> Halfway Guesthouse, 6-8 hours
Part II : HWG <=> Walnut Grove, 3-4 hours
Part III : Walnut Grove <=> Daju : 3-4 hours
This means that trekkers leaving from Qiaotou will probably have to spend the first night in HWGH while trekkers leaving from Daju will have the choice of Walnut Grove or HWG.
Route B
Qiaotou-> Nuoyu Village-> 28 Turns-> Halfway Guesthouse ->Middle Rapids -> Tina's -> Walnut Grove ( Woody )-> Jiangbian-> Haba-> Sanba Village(Baishuitai)
Maps>> Tiger Leaping Gorge Trekking Map
Two paths
The high path : long, strenuous & dangerous but amazing view : this is the "real" stuff. To find it from Qiaotou, walk 80m after the "entrance-fee short cut" or 200m after the entrance, take the large road on the left, pass a school sport yard, take the small path going up and follow the arrows of various colors.
The walk requires some previous trekking experience and good fitness. The path is sometimes slippery, sometimes very narrow (20cm), sometimes next to a ravine... It is OK under light rain but not more. In any case, check the conditions before going by asking at Backpacker's Cafe in Qiaotou. If you stick to the path and follow the arrows (red, yellow, white or blue) and the shoes traces in the dust, you should not have any trouble finding your way.
The low path : relatively easy, flat and boring. You can really walk in good condition from Walnut Grove to Km 9 only : from Qiaotou to km 9 is the domain on the Chinese tourist cars and buses (the Chinese come to see the Tiger Leaping Rock at Km 10) and you will have to take a lift or bring a mask gas as the road is transformed into a big dust cloud.
Two places to start (for the high path)
Qiaotou : Buses from Lijiang to Zhongdian stop at Qiaotou, 7:30~15:00, 2hrs, Y13.5
Daju : Buses from Lijiang, 7:30~13:30, 3hours, Y23.5
Itinerary
The popular section of trail begins at Qiaotou, two hours out of Lijiang. You can take a Hutiao / Zhongdian-bound bus from Lijiang, get off at Qiaotou(Y13-15), leave your bag at Backpackers' Cafe(unless you plan to trek further to Baishuitai near Haba), then change to a local minibus to the entrance of the gorge.
The entry fee is currently Y50, although it can be easily avoided if one arrives before the office opens, or at some opportune moment when the guard is out (or in the confusion if you're arriving with a number of other hikers).
Typically the hike is spread over two days, with a night spent at one of the many guest houses along the route, ending with a 40-60 minute bus-ride from Walnut Grove to Qiaotou (Y50-60 for a small van). More adventuresome types will continue to Baishuitai beyond.
D1 Qiaotou-> Nuoyu Village-> 28 Turns-> Halfway Guesthouse
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Your hiking trip starts from Qiaotou, the 28 zigzaging turns will be a real stuff. The 26km takes about 6-8 hours. From the top of "28 turns" on the high path further uphill to a place of altitude above 3000m, you can have a view of the panorama of the entire Gorge. Check this at a Tea Horse or Guesthouse if you cannot figure it out yourself. You will arrive at Halfway Guesthouse to finish today's trekking. At an altitude of 2500m, you get a magnificent view over the Yangtze River below and the Yulong Mountain right in front of you. For the keen photographer this trek provides a great opportunity to capture nature's best moments.
Halfway Guesthouse organizes two-day treks up Haba Snow Mountain with an overnight stay uphill at a point of altitude above 4000 meters. Sleeping bags and mats for the trek can be rented at the guesthouse. Successful trekkers are awarded "donkey shoes" as souvenirs and their names and contact information are recorded in the "donkey skin book" at the guesthouse. Similar treks can also be arranged at Five Fingers Mountain Guesthouse.
D2 Halfway Guesthouse ->Middle Rapids -> Tina's -> Walnut Grove ( Woody )
Three roads lead to the Middle Rapids. One starts at the right of Woody No.2 (Y2 for "road crossing" fee), another starts near Teacher Zhang's Guesthouse (Y5 "road crossing" fee), the third starts near Chateau Woody where you see a sign advertising Xia Yin Gu's guide service. Once you enter, just go down and you won't miss it! The scenery is the most spectacular in the entire Tiger Leaping Gorge.
To return, you may go back on the same road, or take a different one. Notice that on the third road close to the rapids there is a very dangerous section of a few dozen meters long called "Tiny Sky" (and you need to pay between Y2-5 depending on the condition to cross that). At the rapids itself, there are two places charging "road crossing" fees of 2Y each: one for a small bridge leading to the first road, the other for crossing the wooden plank to the Middle Tiger Leaping Rock. The visit takes between 3 and 5 hours.
Reminders:
Beware of the touts hanging around various guesthouses on the low path (Walnut Grove included except at Sean's Guesthouse): Offending these people may incur a harsh beating plus a demand for hefty money.
It's out of electricity sometimes in Walnut Grove, makes sure you have a flashlight.
Lodging
Qiaotou
Gorge Village Hotel, Xia Gu Chun (0887 880 6246), opposite Backpacker's Cafe, Dorm 10Y in 2/3 bed's room, Dble 25, Dble with bath 120Y / Restaurant
Jade Dragon Hotel "Lotus Hotel" (0887 8806 196), on the right from Bus Station, Dorm 12/15Y in 5/3 bed's room, Dble with bath 160Y / Restaurant
On the high path (kilometers from Qiaotou):
Naxi Family Guesthouse, 6km, Nuo Yu Village, 1.5-2 hours from Qiaotou, 5-8 hours from Walnut Grove / Dorm Y10 / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant
Old Horse Guesthouse,6.5km on a separate path, Nuo Yu Village, 40min walking up from low path at km 6.5, 1.5-2 hours from Qiaotou, 5-8 hours from Walnut Grove / Dorm Y10/ Basic
Tea Horse Trade Guesthouse and Peace Gorge Guesthouse, both at 12km, Ya Cha Corner, 5min between the two, 1 hour walking up from low path at 11km, 3-6 hours from Qiaotou, 3-5 hours from Walnut Grove / Dorm Y10 / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant
Halfway Guesthouse, 17km, Ben Di Wan Village, 1 hour walking up from low path at km 14, 4-8 hours from Qiaotou, 2-4 hours from Walnut Grove / Dorm 10Y,12Y or 15Y in 1,2,3 or 4 bed's rooms / Basic but what a view (check the toilets...) / Hot water /Restaurant
Five Fingers Mountain Guesthouse, 18km, Ben Di Wan Village, 4-8 hours from Qiaotou, 2-3.5 hours from Walnut Grove / Dorm Y10/bed, Hot water / Restaurant . From here it is 3.6 km (2 hours) to Tina's Guesthouse on the low path
On the low path (kilometers from Qiaotou):
Woody No.2 (Zhongxia Meijing Shanzhuang), 18km / Dorm 10Y per bed / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant
Teacher Zhang's Guesthouse, 18.5km / Dorm 10Y per bed / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant
Tina's Guesthouse, 20km, in front of the path going up to the high path, 45mn from Walnut Grove / Dorm 10Y per bed / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant / If you are walking the low path to Qiaotou, take the shortcut just before the Guesthouse to avoid 1.5km of turning road.
Midgorge Guesthouse, the former Ya Cha Hotel, now at 21km / Dorm 10Y per bed / Basic / Hot water / Restaurant
At Walnut Grove (23km from Qiaotou):
Chateau Woody, the first one from Daju / Great view from the clean room for 10Y or 15Y per bed in 1, 2 or 3 bed's room / Hot water in the evening / Clean Toilets / Restaurant
Sean's Guesthouse "Spring Guesthouse", the first one from Qiaotou / Dorm 15 in 8 or 12 bed's rooms / Dorm 20 in Dble / 42 big beds / Hot water / Restaurant
At Daju
Snowflake Hotel or Tiger Leaping Gorge Hotel have cheap beds.
D3 Walnut Grove -> Haba Village
An adventurous add-on to the gorge trek is to continue north all the way to Haba village and the limestone terraces of Baishuitai, making it a four-day trek from Qiaotou. From here you will travel on to Zhongdian.
From Walnut Grove to Haba via Jiangbian, it's about 30km and much of it is uphill, which takes 7-8 hours, more difficult than the high trail of the Tiger Leaping Gorge. After a long ascent, you will reach the village of Haba for the night. A few hundred residents in Haba, many of them are Muslim, and a couple of guesthouses tucked into a valley that spills down a hillside with mountains rising on three sides make up Haba. The Haba Snow Mountain Inn, a typical rural Yunnan guesthouse - a family farm with a couple of rooms converted to guesthouse use.
D4 Haba Vilalge to Baishuitai
A brief steep ascent in the beginning and a couple of steep descents are the only diversions from what is otherwise largely a flat trek and certainly much easier than the Walnut Grove to Haba portion.
Baishuitai (White Water Terrace), believed to be the birthplace of Naxi Dongba culture, is not as nice as Haba. A cluster of buildings around the base of the terraces themselves form the de-facto town of Baishuitai, which falls under the denomination of Sanba town. The main attraction is the limestone terraces, though interesting to see and worth the Y30 of admission. Basic accommodation is available in the town for Y10/bed. Off the main road most of the local dwellings are in the Naxi style and feature the twin-fish motif.
For moving on, the first bus to Zhongdian departs at 8:30AM, while others pass through throughout the day - either heading north to Zhongdian or south to Haba, Jiangbian, Tiger Leaping Gorge or Lijiang. On your ride to Zhongdian (4 hours), you can get off at the turn-off to Bita Lake, 25km east of Zhongdian and hike there.
Reminders
Wear light hiking boots with ankle support.
There is a risk of landslides in bad weather, though no one would like to step out of the door on a rainy day, just in case the weather changes when you are on route. After all, it's a 2-4 days trek.
As with any touristy area, there are endless efforts of varying legitimacy to help you part with your RMB along the route. At various intervals, old women, young girls and sundry others will demand small fees for using optional parts of the path. Some, such as the decent to the river below Tina's guest house, are particularly annoying, as you'll be asked for a few RMB more at what seems like every step of the way, with an elaborate story to explain the cost. Also be aware that some guest houses may try to mislead you about your hiking options, for example Tina's guest house has been known to insist that while you may descend to the river below, you must hike back up, and may not continue along the river to Walnut Grove--one of the most spectacular sections of the trail.
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