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Revealing the lost world of Borneo
In 1947, a British pilot flew from the west coast of Sabah to Tawau experienced a shock when he narrowly avoided colliding with a wall of steep cliffs emerging from the misty jungle. This incident is the first recorded mention of the Maliau Basin. The "Lost World" was recorded in the Borneo Bulletin and then quietly slipped back into obscurity..........
Then in 1988, the first expedition into the basin was made and today only about 20% has been explored......... http://prinsengineering.com
Maliau Basin
...Sabah Lost World ...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maliau_Basin
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In Sabah lies one of Malaysia's finest remaining wilderness areas, the mystical Maliau Basin. Bounded by a formidable escarpment reaching over 1,675 m a.s.l.., the almost circular Basin encompasses 390 km2 of pristine forest, a virtually self-contained ecosystem, never permanently inhabited and with large areas still remaining to be explored and documented. Remarkably, the whole basin is a single huge water catchments, drained by one river only, the Maliau River, which flows through a gorge in the southeast of the Basin, joining the Kuamut River and eventually the Kinabatangan River.
Maliau Basin conservation area is not commonly know by all Malaysian people. If you like nature and trekking in the jungle, Maliau Basin, can provide you a nice place and nice experience in the jungle. The scenery of maliau falls is very beautiful and nature. Here you will have a chance to see a sun bear, banting, deer and others.
The Maliau Basin is one of the most spectacular and pristine natural features in Malaysia. The Basin is almost unvisited and completely uninhabited by man. It is located in south-central Sabah, about 40 km. north of the Indonesian border at between 116° 40' - 117° 2' and 4° 40' 4° 50' N. While all of this region is rugged, remote and forested, the Maliau Basin is distinguished by its steep slope up to 1,500m. in height, making it insurmountable on foot from most directions. The size of the enclosed Basin is 390 sq. km. with a maximum diameter of 25 km. The highest point is Mt. Lotung, on the north rim which is about 1,900 m elevation.
It is drained by a set of radiating tributaries of the Maliau River, one of which descends a series of waterfalls, known as the Maliau Falls.
The river drains through a gorge into the Kuamut River which in turn feeds into the Kinabatangan River, the longest river in Sabah.
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The pictures on this page are courtesy of Gabriel Chong, the Chin Family, Stefan Kolb and Lau Nai Kwong. More information can be found on the websites of Gabriel
Photo Gallery : http://www.johnlkong.com
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Imagine a self-contained forest where rare and endemic flora and fauna have thrived for million of years in a saucer-shaped basin hemmed in by sheer cliffs.
Step into the pristine Maliau Basin Conservation Area (Maliau Basin Conservation Area), aptly dubbed the Lost World.
In the heart of Sabah, 190km from Tawau, Maliau was a well-kept secret among the local Murut people. The rest of the world only learned of this mysterious place when a pilot nearly crashed into its mist-shrouded cliffs in 1947.
A recent team to Maliau in 1982 discovered an untouched world with bearded pigs, leaf monkeys and eight-meter long pythons.
The first Maliau scientific expedition began in 1988, followed by a few research trips over the years. Scientists encountered the elusive clouded leopard, endangered sun bear and endemic species like the tufted grand squirrel and male Bulwer’s pheasant.
More than 30 species of mammals, 270 bird species and over 80 species of orchids, rare and endemic, were recorded. The recent June 2006 scientific expedition led by the Academy Sciences of Malaysia and two local universities yielded 10 possible new species of flora and fauna, according to Maliau Basin Conservation Area’s Dr Waidi Sinun, Yayasan Sabah’s group manager of conservation and environmental management.
Originally part of the 10,000sq km timber concession held by the Yayasan Sabah Group (Sabah Foundation), Maliau Basin escaped the chainsaws in the early 90s and mining exploration attempts in early 2000, despite it being gazetted as a Class I (Protection) Forest Reserve in 1997 (banning all logging and mining activities).
The journey
Guests of Sabah-based outdoor operator Borneo Nature Tours (BNT), our party of five – including journalist Liz Price, photographer Calvin Ng and guides Calixtus and Isnadil – opted for a five-day/four-night trek on the Agathis loop which would take us through the Agathis, Lobah and Camel Trophy camps.
With over 70km of marked trails, only about one third of Maliau is open to visitors and less than half the Basin has been explored by researchers so far.
A six-hour trundle on a four-wheel drive from Tawau, over logging roads and oil palm estates took us to the Maliau Basin Conservation Area security outpost.
Maliau Basin Conservation Area covers an area of 590sq km, including a “buffer” zone made up of secondary forests. It is in the buffer zones that the rare Sumatran rhinoceros and Bornean pygmy elephants have been spotted.
Our first sighting was the footprints of the Banteng, or what the locals call tembadau (wild ox), extinct in Peninsular Malaysia for half a century now. About 15 to 20 tembadau have been recorded in Maliau.
An hour’s drive from the outpost, the Agathis camp is nestled in the mixed dipterocarp forest with tree canopies reaching 25m to 45m, and species like the meranti sarang punai (Shorea parvifolia) and seraya (Shorea curtisii). The camp, a wooden building on stilts, comes with comfy camp beds, shower facilities and lounging areas with stacks of reading material.
After the first of many scrumptious dinners, we took off for a night ramble on the Agathis Nature trail. Sightings of a Kingfisher, mouse deer, barking deer, frogs, millipede and calls of the Argus Pheasant wrapped up a fruitful evening.
Exploring the basin
Pristine rainforest covers the Basin from 300m to 1,800m high – with lowland dipterocarp forest making way for highland heath forest and Casuarina-conifer forests as the altitude increases.
The rugged terrains and precipitous hills also meant our knees took a serious pounding as we trekked an average of four to seven hours a day from one campsite to another.
But we feasted our senses on the forest’s smells, sounds and sights.
We stumbled upon a kaleidoscope of mushrooms scattered on the forest floor and tree trunks like cup fungi (Cookeina specie) and bracket fungi (Stereum lobatum).
Soothing hoots of the Bornean gibbons (Hylobates muelleri) kept us company each morning as we trudged on the sheer slopes. One of the rangers, Harbin, pointed out some unusual forest herbs, a tree bark ripped off by the sun bear and a gaping hole on a gaharu tree (Aquilaria malaccensis) left by poachers.
Maliau’s entire basin is a single water catchment, drained by numerous streams that converge to form Maliau River that flows out into Kuamut River which, in turn, feeds the Kinabatangan River.
Garden of Eden
On the third day, we plodded on to the Camel Trophy camp, 1,005m high. After a arduous climb of about 300m up a 70° incline, we stepped into the magical heath forest.
Bright pink rhododendrons and red ixoras peeked out from trees and bushes. Pitcher plants like the Nepenthes stenophylla dangled prettily like Christmas tinsel, while the Nepenthes veitchii with their flared lips (peristomes) wrapped their roots around trunks.
At least six pitcher plant species and one natural hybrid (N. veitchii-stenophylla) have been spotted in Maliau. In one day, I took snapshots of at least five types of pitcher plants including the N. tentaculata, N. hirsuta and N. reinwardtiana.
The winding trail flanked by pitcher plants and colorful fungi made a pretty sight. Assortments of epiphytes like orchids were in abundance although they were not in bloom then.
The Camel Trophy camp was almost “luxurious” with beds and pillows, solar-powered lights and running water pumped from the river below.
We stayed put for two days and explored the nearby Giluk Falls and Takob-Akob Falls. Both evenings, a “resident” bearded pig (Sus barbatus) was spotted foraging outside our camp.
My all-time favourite place in Maliau would be the 33m observation platform built on an Agathis borneensis tree behind the Camel trophy shelter. Towering Agathis trees have distinct pock-marked, grey/reddish barks with pearls of yellow-white resin. At the break of dawn, I clambered up the platform, taking in the sweeping view of the lush, mist-wreathed forest and enjoying the cool, fresh air.
As the pink, glowing sun broke through the clouds, I heard a sudden rustling of leaves. On my left, about 10m away at eye level, two Bornean gibbons were cavorting on a nearby tree. Seconds after they spotted me, they took a big leap and like trapeze artists, swung their long arms and vanished into the thick foliage.
What a spectacle
Five days were barely enough to unearth the many natural riches of Maliau. But given a chance, I would come back again, especially when the haze comes around . . .
o Sources: Maliau Basin – Sabah’s Lost World
Secrets of the Lost World – Sabah’s Maliau Basin
ENQUIRIES For information on the Maliau Basin Conservation Area, call (088) 326 300/422 211, fax: (088) 432 192, e-mail: maliau@icsb-sabah.com.my or visit www.ysnet.org.my/maliau
Travel info
STAY A 5D/4N-trip for a group of four averages RM1,100 per person (including conservation fees, transport to and from Tawau, administration fees, two park rangers, VHF radio rental, food and camp beds). Visitors have to write to Yayasan Sabah and get an approval before being allowed into Maliau Basin Conservation Area. Tariffs for Maliau Basin Conservation Area have not been updated on the website.
Or sign up for a trekking package with Borneo Nature Tours, tel: (088) 267 637, fax: (088) 251 636, e-mail: info@borneonaturetours.com or visit www.borneonaturetours.com.
For a 5D/4N package, price ranges from RM2,800 to RM 3,800 per/person (including nature guides). Park Rangers are not guides and their job is to ensure visitors follow the trails and don’t violate park guidelines.
Managing Maliau
Since it was designated a Protected Class I Forest in 1997, Maliau’s visitors (including government officer, researchers and voluntary organizations) total 2,574. As of Nov 2006, there were only 684 visitors.
Some of the steps taken to preserve the area include:
limiting the number of visitors at any one camp to 20
visitors must stay at designated camps, like Agathis, Camel Trophy, Ginseng or Lobah
regular trail maintenance
biodegradable wastes are disposed of onsite, while recyclable materials are sent to a recycling centre in Tawau. Visitors are advised not to bring Styrofoam food containers and canned foods
scheduled to open in June 2007, the new Maliau Basin Studies Centre (MBSC), next to Belian Camp, will have a hostel and camping ground, exhibition hall, mini theatre, conference room and library.
Visitors can check out the new “sky bridge” (spanning eight trees, it is 400m-long and suspended 22m above ground), a natural pool, interpretative nature trail and treetop lounge. The centre will hold environmental education activities and have a Nature Gallery.
A 45-minute drive from the security post, the centre is open to the public.
Currently, there are 12 tour operators taking tourists into Maliau. But when the Study Centre opens, Yayasan will appoint a few operators to be on Maliau Basin Conservation Area’s tour panel.
Two of the biggest threats to the Maliau area are poaching and the nicking of forest products, according to Dr Waidi Sinun, the group manager of conservation and environmental management under Yayasan Sabah Group.
Maliau’s management has increased the frequency of patrols in the area by park rangers. Some of the rangers double up as wildlife wardens and also work with the Wildlife department to deal with poachers.
“It’s also a challenge to educate the public, especially the communities living near Maliau, to ensure they help conserve the area for the future generation,” says Waidi.
Traditionally, local communities have always ventured into the fringes of the basin to collect forest products.
“We’re now looking into alternative economic opportunities for these communities.”
Most of the park rangers are sourced from nearby villages.
Balancing nature conservation and protecting locals’ livelihood is a real challenge, but at this juncture, Maliau Basin Conservation Area is off to a good start.
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Management
Maliau Basin was originally part of a timber concession of Yayasan Sabah (Sabah Foundation), an organization formed in 1966 through an Enactment of the Sabah State Legislative Assembly, with the mission of improving the standard of living and education of Sabah people. Recognizing the uniqueness of the area, in 1981 Yayasan Sabah voluntarily designated Maliau Basin as a Conservation Area, for the purposes of research, education and training, along with Danum Valley Conservation Area further to the east.
In 1997, Maliau Basin Conservation Area was upgraded by the Sabah state government to a Class 1 Protection Forest Reserve, providing legal status as a protected area, and extended to its present size of 588.4 km2 by incorporating forested land to the east and north of the Basin. Maliau received further protection in 1999 when it was gazette as a cultural heritage site under the state Cultural Heritage (Conservation) Enactment. Buffer zones surrounding the whole Conservation Area also add to its protection.
Day to day management of the Conservation Area is carried out by Yayasan Sabah on behalf of an inter-agency Maliau Basin Management Committee, which also includes Sabah Forestry Department, Sabah Ministry of Tourism, Culture and Environment, University Malaysia Sabah and representatives from other government agencies, academic institutions. District Offices and NGOs.
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Collaboration
In 1999, a 4-year project was initiated between Yayasan Sabah and DANIDA (Danish International Development Assistance), resulting in the preparation of a Strategic Management Plan for Maliau Basin Conservation Area/and the establishment of Maliau Basin Studies Centre at the southeast edge of the Basin, for research, conservation, education and ecotourism purposes.
Generous sponsorship has come from Swedish company IKEA who funded a vehicle, satellite camps, trail and bridge construction, observation towers and the Maliau 'Sky Bridge', while Sabah Shell Petroleum Limited sponsored the construction of Shell Maliau Basin Reception and Information Building.
Maliau Basin Conservation Area is a remote location and safety procedures must be followed. These include having insurance which covers emergency helicopter evacuation for those trekking into the forest, being accompanied by Maliau rangers while on the trails and rental of VHF radios. Hunting is absolutely forbidden, and rules concerning the conservation of the area such as no collection of specimens without written permission, must also be strictly adhered to.
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Activities
In addition to being an ideal place for research and environmental education, Maliau Basin Conservation Area is perfect for adventure jungle trekking, bird watching, nature photography, night drives to spot nocturnal wildlife, waterfall swimming and recreation and simply experiencing the thrill of being in a truly uncoil wilderness.
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Waterfalls & Lakes
Maliau’s Murut name for the basin means “Land of the Giant Staircase” derived from its step-like landscape and countless waterfalls – 19 falls and still counting.
A trip to the Maliau Basin takes several days, you will stay overnight in a number of camps and must be prepared for long jungle treks under sometimes difficult conditions.
For detailed information, download this Maliau trip report, prepared by Gabriel Chong.
Maliau Basin contains many outstanding natural features, including probably the greatest number of waterfalls anywhere in Malaysia. The most famed of these is the spectacular 7-tiered Maliau Falls on the Maliau River, the highest fall of which is a magnificent 28m. Maliau is also the home of the fabled Lake Linumunsut, Sabah's only non-oxbow lake, situated below the? outer banks of the northern escarpment.
Maliau Falls, with its seven tiers of cascading waters was breathtaking. The way to savour its magnificence is to see it from a hovering helicopter.
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Flora
The isolated and mysterious Maliau Basin, also known as Sabah's Lost World, has only recently begun to be investigated by researchers. Major expeditions in 1988,1996, 2001, 2005 and 2006, and baseline studies during the joint Yayasan Sabah/DANIDA project, discovered a distinct and diverse flora of over 1,800 species, including at least 6 types of pitcher plant and more than 80 species of orchid, several of which are new records for Sabah. The rare Rafflesia tengku-adlinii has also been found in Maliau Basin, one of only two known localities in Sabah, and two species completely new to science, a tree and a moss, have so far been discovered. Main forest types comprise lower montane forest dominated by majestic Agathis trees, rare montane heath forest and precious lowland and hill dipterocarp forest.
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Fauna
The basin is a faunal haven for lowland animals such as wild pigs, barking deer, probocis monkey, clouded leopard, pythons and many species of birds including the rare Bulwer's Pheasant, the Crimsonheaded Partridge and the Peregine Falcon.
Although much of the terrain remains to be explored and studied, Maliau has already revealed itself to be the home of some of Sabah's most rare and endangered wildlife species, including the Sumatran Rhinoceros, Banteng, Orang Utan and Proboscis Monkey. Others among the over 80 mammal species so far confirmed include Bornean Pygmy Elephant, Clouded Leopard and Malayan Sunbear.
An impressive bird list comprising nearly 300 species has been recorded to date, including the spectacular Bulwer's Pheasant and Bornean Bristlehead. In fact Maliau has become a global hot spot for bird biodiversity with no less than one quarter of the bird species present listed as threatened or near threatened by IUCN (the World Conservation Union).
More than 35 species of amphibian have so far been found, including a frog which makes its home in pitcher plants! Maliau has also yielded new species of fish, crab and water beetle, with no doubt many more species still to be discovered amongst its rich biodiversity.
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Satellite Camp Accommodation
In addition to the chalet, rest house and hostel accommodation facilities available at Maliau Basin Studies Centre, Maliau offers a range of satellite camps linked by well-maintained trails.
Belian Camp
Belian Camp is about 25km drive from the Security Gate and within walking distance of Maliau Basin Studies Centre. It comprises a camping ground with space for 20 double tents, a large kitchen, toilets cum showers, and an attractive pavilion. Located in logged lowland dipterocarp forest near the banks of Maliau River, Belian Camp is close to an educational nature trail and an impressive canopy walkway, also known as Maliau 'Sky Bridge7.
AgathisCamp
Set on the banks of a 15m wide stream in hill mixed dipterocarp forest, Agathis Camp is located at the southernmost edge of Maliau Basin Conservation Area, about 20km to the north of the Security Gate. A 1km self-guided nature trail at the camp provides visitors with a fascinating introduction to the forest and its wildlife. The camp is well-equipped and comfortable, with hammock-style accommodation for up to 30 visitors, electricity and toilets and showers.
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Camel Trophy Camp
Camel Trophy Camp is a two-storey building complete with bunk beds, showers and solar electricity, which can accommodate up to 15 visitors. Constructed by the participants of Camel Trophy in 1993, it was the first permanent camp within the Basin and is located strategically at the meeting point of lower montane forest and the rare and unusual montane heath forest on Maliau's southern plateau. A 33m high observation platform near the top of a large Agathis borneensis tree provides an opportunity to observe birds at close range and allows breathtaking views of the surrounding forest canopy.
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Ginseng Camp
Constructed in 2005 near to the impressive 27m high Ginseng Falls and about 5-6 hours walk form Agathis Camp, this substantial camp can accommodate up to 20 visitors, and has hammock-style beds and toilets cum showers.
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SerayaCamp
Four to six hours walk from Belian Camp, Seraya Camp is located on what is expected to be the most important trail in Maliau Basin Conservation Area in the future, as most visitors to Maliau Falls will spend the night here. Trails around Seraya Camp also pass a rare Rafflesia tengku-adlinii site.
Lobah Camp
Located near the top of a hill with a 230 degrees panoramic view of the Basin's rim, Lobah Camp is approximately 2km from the well-known Maliau Falls, and serves as a much-needed stopping point for visitors from Ginseng and Camel Trophy Camps, before arriving at the Falls. Other satellite camps in remote locations such as Rafflesia, Strike Ridge and Eucalyptus Camps are accessible to visitors only by helicopter.
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Maliau Basin Conservation Area is located in south central Sabah, about 40 km north of the Kalimantan border, and adjacent to Yayasan Sabah Forest Management Area. It is accessible via the towns of Tawau or Keningau, both 4 to 5 hour drives away. Four- wheel drive is recommended as part of the journey is on unpaved roads.
At Maliau Basin Security Gate, where the Shell Maliau Basin Reception and Information Building is located, an access road leads to Agathis Camp and Maliau Basin Studies Centre. There are no roads inside the Conservation Area.
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Please contact the addresses below for further enquiries and booking information:
The Secretariat
Maliau Basin Conservation Area
Research & Development Division
Yayasan Sabah Group
P.O. Box 11622. Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
Tel: (6 088) 326300 / 326318 Fax: (6088) 326316 / 326315
Email:albinus@icsb-sabah.com.my
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The Manager
Maliau Basin Conservation Area
Research & Development Division
Yayasan Sabah Group
C/0 Rakyat Berjaya Sdn. Bhd.
P.O. Box 60793, Tawau. Sabah, Malaysia
Tel: (6 089) 759214 Fax:(6089)759215
Email: maliaubasin@gmail.com
http://www.ysnet.org.my/maliau
http://www.borneoforestheritage.org.my
